2jz Ge Vvti Timing Belt Install

This is a guide to replacing a cam gear/s on the 2JZGTE or 2JZGE engine.

Timing Belt Tensioner PS Pump Pulley Lower Radiator Hose Timing Belt Guide Timing Belt Plate x 5 Radiator Assembly Reservoir Inlet Hose No.2 Fan Shroud x 16 Engine Under Cover Hose Clamp Oil Cooler Tube A/T x 10 Fan and Fluid Coupling Assembly precoated part Non - reusable part EM-14 ENGINE MECHANICAL (2JZ-GTE) - TIMING BELT Author: Date: 1119.

Some of these steps can be used to replace the timing belt, but not all, in the future I hope to have a full article on that process.

  • I have a 2001 lexus IS300 engine: 2jz ge. Today I replaced the cam and crank seals and put in a new adjustable cam gear so we put everything back together and tried to rotate the engine but it wasn’t turning so we left it right now I have the two cam gears set to 60 degrees BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER but the crank pully went out of time how do get it back on time with out bending the valves.
  • Engine mechanical (2jz-gte) - timing belt author: date: 1119 1997 supra (rm502u) timing belt components. EM0AG-02 Z13597 Air Cleaner and MAF Meter Assembly No.1 Air Hose Engine Wire Protector Air Cleaner Duct Theft Deterrent Horn Drive Belt No.5 Air Hose Hose Clamp Oil Cooler Tube (A/T) Hose Clamp Front Lower Arm.
  • Timing Belt Tensioner PS Pump Pulley Lower Radiator Hose Timing Belt Guide Timing Belt Plate x 5 Radiator Assembly Reservoir Inlet Hose No.2 Fan Shroud x 16 Engine Under Cover Hose Clamp Oil Cooler Tube A/T x 10 Fan and Fluid Coupling Assembly precoated part Non - reusable part EM-14 ENGINE MECHANICAL (2JZ-GTE) - TIMING BELT Author: Date: 1119.

The process and pictures were taken mostly on my 2JZGTE VVTi supra, there are a few pictures of my old 2JZGE also – the process is almost identical and can be followed for both turbo and non-turbo engine models. The same process can be followed on the non-vvti, the VVTi has only the exhaust side cam gear that can be replaced, the non-vvti can have the exhaust and intake cam gear swapped out.

I have also done this with the engine out which makes it a lot easier to get parts off, I may only briefly touch on some steps that I didn’t have to do, also if you’re going to do this then I suggest you do your timing belt and water pump if need be, good time to change your coolant and flush/bleed system once done also, plus any seals or maintenance items.

Tools required; (*Optional)

  • Torque wrench
  • Socket set and extension bars (10, 12, 17, 22 mm sizes)
  • Screw driver
  • Pliers
  • Jack and Stands (Safety First!)
  • Coolant *
  • Timing Belt *
  • Water Pump *
  • Cam seals *

Process;

  • Diagram
  • Disconnect the battery cables and clamp then remove the battery. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 3x 10mm bolts holding the battery tray in
  • Jack up car and put it safely on stands, get you 10mm socket and undo engine under cover (this will aid in removing radiator, removing fan, removing, shroud, disconnecting any plugs like electric fans if you have them, getting to timing belt tensioner)

2jz Vvti Ecu

Diagram EM15 Part 1 –

  • Get the pliers and remove the clamps on the radiator hoses (Do one end and drain into bucket, do a coolant change while your at it)
  • Remove radiator, fan shroud (10mm bolts on radiator) and electric fans/plugs

Diagram EM15 Part 2 –

  • Remove drive belt tensioner damper (2x 10mm bolts)

Diagram EM15 Part 3 –

  • Remove drive belt (Put socket over dampener bolt and push down clockwise to loosen off), remove clutch fan (4x 10mm nuts) – Don’t worry about where it mentions in step 3 to look at removing water pump pulley)
  • Remove timing belt cover (10mm allen heads) – Don’t worry about where it mentions in step 3 to look at removing water pump pulley, this is not required

Diagram EM15 Part 4 –

  • Not required for removal

Diagram EM15 Part 5 –

  • Remove the 5mm allen head bolts on the spark plug cover, remove spark plug cover (NA has 3x bolts, TT nas 12x bolts). Also remove any intake or piping/plumbing for easier access if required

Quavo and saweetie sex tape. Diagram Part 6 –

  • Remove the 5mm allen head bolts on the lower spark plug cover
  • You should now have something similar to this (TT top picture, NA bottom)

Diagram EM15 Part 7 –

  • Not required

Diagram EM16 Part 8 –

  • Follow instructions part 8a and 8bonly, making sure your timing is at TDC 0 (white line) also mark your timing belt with something to match up with the cam gear marks like a crayon that I used. You will see the marks on the cam gear will match up with the notches at the back too. If they don’t match up then turn the crank clockwise another 360 degrees until the cam gear notches line up and crank is at TDC 0.
  • Unless you have an SST then do this, loosen your cam bolt(s) here while you still have tension on the timing belt (Use 22mm socket on the crank bolt to stop it moving while you loosen the cam gear bolts, they are tight)

2jz Ge Vvti

Diagram EM16 Part 9 –

  • 9 Only – Optional – There is no need to completely remove the timing belt
  • 9a – By now you should have access to the drive belt tensioner so loosen these 2 (12mm) bolts (DON’T TAKE THEM OFF), this will take tension off the belt, it is the rusty looking thing.
  • By now, you should have enough slack to easily remove the timing belt, if not loosen bolts a little more on the belt tensioner. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!!! You don’t want to bump the cam gears or the crank pulley or you could seriously throw your timing off! Carefully back the cam gear bolt back out and set aside.

2jz Vvti Valve Cover

  • Take the cam gear off carefully and put new cam gear(s) on, making sure the teeth or the belt don’t move, the cam gear is keyed and can only go on one way, your marks should line up, if not make sure they do! (If your not VVTi do the other side too, but make sure you do one side at a time)

Diagram EM23 Part 9b, 10a and 10b –

  • From here you just need to put cam gear bolt back in and do up hand tight ensuring camshaft timing markings are correct

Diagram EM23 Part 11-

  • Not required unless you removed timing belt tensioner

Diagram EM23 Part 12-

2jz Ge Vvti Timing Belt Installation

  • Tighten torque drive belt tensioner bolts back up evenly to 20ft/lbs with a torque wrench, also making sure your belt is on evenly (look from above).
  • Next get 22mm wrench again and put on crank bolt and get torque wrench and do up cam gear bolt 59ft/lbs (using crank bolt to stop from moving)
2jzge vvti turbo

2jz Non Vvti

  • As far as timing and tuning goes please use instructions provided or get your mechanic/tuner to do for you, make sure you use loctite on cam gear bolts.
  • Install everything back on and make sure TDC is at 0 and the cam gears line up with the marks, also make sure everything is put back together and you’re not missing screws and nuts that you put everywhere, also do a coolant flush/bleed system.
  • Old cam gear out and new cam gear in – job complete!
Please note that while HKS products are high quality, there are cams that have much better power curves and make more power and for less money. If I were building an engine today, I would buy another camshaft manufacturer and not HKS.
Contrary to what some say, you can get a 272 degree cam to idle near perfectly at 1000 rpm. My Supra equipped with the T78 Single Turbo Kit gained almost 50 peak RWHP with just a change to HKS 272 cams. These cams are a MUST for large single and twin turbo cars. Drivability if installed properly is excellent, with only a slight idle change.
If you take a look at the incredible R&D work that HKS Japan did on a HKS T04R single turbo equipped Supra (see below accessory), you will notice a comparison of various HKS camshafts. This is the type of data that has been missing for a long time to Supra enthusiasts. As you can see if you are looking for maximum HP at higher rpm's, then the 272 degree cams are the units for you with almost 20rwhp more power than either HKS 256 or 264 degree cams. The trade off with 272's is you lose power on the low-end, in some cases up to 80rwhp, until you get to the higher rpms.
For smaller single turbo Supras and those that want to build power sooner in the power band the we suggest going with a combination of 264 degree intake and 264 degree exhaust camshafts.
There has always been internet conversation on the benefits or not of using higher lift camshafts on Supras with the factory twin turbos. The old rule of thumb was there was very little to be gained in using camshafts unless you had more airflow from larger turbo(s). We have just recently had a customer who installed 264 degree camshafts on his 1994 Supra Twin Turbo (running 20psi of boost). Without any other changes he gained 22rwhp and a significantly better pull on the top-end.
It is this real-life data that has caused us to recommend the possibility of adding camshafts to those who are still running the factory twin turbos. HKS offers 256, 264 and 272 degree camshafts. Some thought that 256 cams would offer some help at the BPU level, but not much if the same owner upgraded his turbos at a later date. We agree that 256 degree HKS camshafts do not offer enough bang for the buck and recommend 264 degree intake and exhaust camshafts for Supras with factory twin turbos running 18+ psi
One question we receive often at SupraStore.com is in regards to the usage of the stock valvetrain when upgrading to a performance camshaft. The answer is simple. There are NO valvetrain enhancements or modifications of any kind required to run HKS or JUN camshafts on either a factory twin turbo or large turbo 2JZGTE Supra.
Installation time for two camshafts with a good mechanic is approximately 4 hours. It is a good time to do the timing belt and install cam gears as well.
Price is for one camshaft. You need two.
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